Zion-Bryce Canyon National Parks

After orienting ourselves at the Visitor Center we loaded our backpacks, put on our hiking boots and set off for our first shuttle bus ride along the Zion Canyon. In order to reduce the environmental impact of the cars and rvs that clogged the canyon road in the 1990’s the park instituted a free shuttle bus system and banned private vehicles (with a few exemptions) from the canyon road. The shuttles are a tandem system where one bus with driver pulls a second and passengers can get on and off at any of the 7 stops along the canyon.

They also have a single shuttle that picks up and drops off passengers in the adjacent town of Springdale to encourage park visitors to leave their vehicles in town as parking is limited at Zion (hence the new lot being developed).

We took the shuttle to the furthest point and worked our way backwards. We had dressed in layers as the day started cool and windy, especially at our first hike from the Temple of Sinawava along the Riverside Walk. The walk allowed us to view some of the hanging gardens, get up close with some of the wildlife, and watch the hardy souls begin the Narrows, a hike which continues up the canyon in the Virgin River. Most of those attempting this strenuous venture did so in rented waterproof boots, socks and hip waders rented from outfitters in town.

Our next hike was short but steep up to the Weeping Rock where we passed under on overhead shower and sought refuge under an overhang to take our pictures.

Rather than take the shuttle we walked between The Grotto and the Zion Lodge, a heritage hotel with a large, grassy lawn with a massive old tree. Although it was warming, the wind was still blowing the cottonwood such that it almost appeared to be snowing as we sat in rocking chairs on the lodge veranda and ate our lunch. We hiked up to the Lower Emerald Pool but were disappointed that it appeared more muddy than emerald at this point. However our short steep walk up to the Court of the Patriarchs was well worth it for the view of the three majestic peaks to the west: Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.

Our final stop was at the Zion Human History Museum which had some interesting exhibits and reinforced how much the development of the areas which are now the Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks owe to the Mormons’ push to settle areas where they could practice their religion freely.

Back at the campsite with the construction site still in full swing we decided to make a trip into Springdale for overpriced firewood and groceries and wifi at the Library which while free was insufficient to allow for much more than downloading some of our emails.

The next morning we were up early and took off retracing our route to Bryce Canyon National Park. We were able to stop at some of the viewpoints before the tunnel which we had not been able to do when we arrived towing the trailer. At Bryce, we found that the shuttles are optional so we decided to explore the park in the van. Our first stop after the Visitor Center was Sunrise Point. The rocks here have a much pinker, more delicate hue and more fragile look, almost like stalactites.

We hiked the rim trail over to Sunset Point, all the while marvelling at the hardy, fit souls who choose to hike the trails down in the canyon and back up. We also crossed over the horse trails as a couple of riders went by on what would definitely be an easier way to explore the floor of the canyon. After a break for lunch and the hike back to Sunrise Point, just as one of the shuttles decided to blow its engine blocking our exit route, requiring us to go up the downstairs, we continued on to Inspiration Point and Bryce Point. Inspiration Point was definitely my favourite view of the park, truly spectacular and well worth the sharp hike up to the point.

We drove on as far as the Natural Arch (which seemed to pale in comparison after Arches National Park) and by then it was time to head back to Zion. We did make a stop to pick up firewood at a house in Glendale with an honour system $5.00 in the pot and take two bundles, such a deal after paying $5.99 for a tiny bundle in Springdale the day before.  

Of the two parks, I think I preferred Bryce, the scenery was just so much more dramatic and different than anything I had seen before.