Grand Canyon

Leaving Zion bound for the Grand Canyon meant another trip through the tunnel towing the trailer but somehow it didn’t seem so daunting this time having made the trek several times. In a couple of hours we were at Glen Canyon National Park and stopped to make reservations at Wahweap Campground on Lake Powell for the day we would be leaving the Grand Canyon. Although the most expensive campground yet at $44, after 9 days of camping in National Parks with few services a full hook up site with laundry facilities seemed like a worthwhile expenditure. After another stop in the town of Page for gas and groceries we continued on to the Grand Canyon, again passing through Navaho territory complete with innumerable stalls selling native crafts. We arrived at the East entrance to the park just as a few raindrops appeared but it was still relatively warm and they did not amount to much. We took the advice of the Park Ranger at the entrance and stopped at the Desert View Viewpoint and Service Centre for our first glimpse of the Canyon. Here we were able to see the Colorado River deep in the gorge and tour the Watchtower for a higher view.

 

We then continued on the 28 odd miles to our campsite at Mather Campground, a dry campground with flush toilets. Our site was a spacious pull-through with plenty of space for the van and the trailer despite the posted warnings of 30’ maximum vehicle lengths. The campground did appear to be showing its age; the asphalt was crumbing, the wooden picnic table was warped, and the toilet buildings were older but clean.  As we were setting up camp, a group of elk passed through the area behind out campsite.

 

After our Sunday breakfast we were off to find the Village shuttle (there are 4 different shuttle routes which intersect at various transfer points) which took us to the Visitors Center and from there it was a short walk to Mather Point.  It was a bright, sunny morning but cool so Pete had a fleece and I had my sweatshirt and our packs held water, lunch, cameras, and shorts (in case it got hot). We hopped another shuttle to the Village and disembarked at the Train Depot and then walked up to the historic El Tovar lodge and Hopi House.  The Hopi House, in addition to a gift shop housed a gallery of native art, again displaying some Navaho rugs similar to the ones we had seen at the Hubbell Trading Post.

 
We walked the rim area here and toured the Kolb Studio before hiking the upper portion of the Bright Angel Trail down past the first tunnel and back up again.  It was warming and we had removed our jackets by this point.

By about 10:30 we lined up with the growing Sunday crowds for the Red Route Shuttle that takes Park visitors to nine stops along the way to Hermit’s Rest. This route from Bright Angel Trailhead to Hermit’s Rest is only accessible by shuttle and the buses were crowded. From the first few of these viewpoints, while the views of the canyon are impressive, you do not get a view of the Colorado River. However, what we did get was a view of the ever darkening sky.

We decided to hike the rim trail between Powell Point and Hopi Point and it was while we were enjoying the view

that we felt the first fat raindrops. The wind was increasing and thunder started to roll and so we joined the crowds lining up the shuttle. The rain started to pound and we put on our jackets, wishing we had stowed our gortex in our backpacks. When the shuttle arrived the driver allowed everyone in the line to squeeze on board to take shelter during the downpour but we had to get off and wait for another bus when she determined that the worst was over and it was time for her to resume her route. Turns out the worst wasn’t over and the rain turned to hail as we shivered waiting for a shuttle with enough room to take us to the next stop where we had to get off and wait again for a shuttle travelling the return route. We decided to return to camp and have lunch and warm up (it was now about 12:30pm) and were surprised to find that it was much drier at the campground and the sun was starting to come out. After our break and putting our gortex jackets in the van and garbage bags fashioned into emergency rain ponchos into our backpacks we set off again hoping to catch a performance of Hope Dancers back at the Village.

Parking was an issue on the still busy Sunday afternoon and by the time we arrived back at the rim the rain had started to fall again. On went the emergency ponchos and we arrived just the dancers decided to cut their performance short due to the rain.

We could see that the sky wasn’t as dark to the east so once back at the van we took off to the Desert View Drive. The rain first became intermittent showers and had dissipated by the time we stopped and visited the Tusayan Museum and ruins.

After gassing up at Desert View we did the return leg along the drive stopping at each of the viewpoints.

Dinner, an amalgam of various leftovers from previous meals was cooked inside the trailer and after consuming our main course at the picnic table wearing coats and toques we retreated back inside for dessert.

The morning arrived cold but with a promise of some sun so we decided to resume where we had left off when the rain started the day before on the western rim at Mohave Point. I was so much easier to get parking in a prime location and not have to battle the weekend crowds for space on the shuttle at 8:30 on Monday morning. It also seemed like a good time for a bit of a walk and a chance to appreciate more of the view close up so we chose to hike the rim for the 1.2 miles between Mohave Point and The Abyss.

It was nice to be able to enjoy the grandeur of the canyon in quiet solitude and have the chance to see the high desert wildflowers blooming along the trail.

We hopped on and off the shuttle at the remaining view points and were fortunate to time our visit to Pima Point when a tour bus with a guide was there pointing out the location of the ruins of the original Hermit Cabin and giving some of the history of the area

When we reached the final stop on the Red Route at Hermit’s Rest the skies were darkening again as the clouds rolled in and our return shuttle got us back to the village just before the rain started to fall again. After a bit of shopping we hustled back to the campsite and took down the picnic shelter quickly so we would not have to pack it up soaking wet. After lunch we went in search of wifi at the Park Headquarters and were ushered into a private office in the Research Library with access to power and a half way reasonable signal while listening to the librarian chattering non-stop to other visitors who arrived.

Of the four “biggie” National Parks that we visited: Arches, Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon, I probably enjoyed the Grand Canyon the least due to its commercialism and size (and perhaps the weather, too!). It also did not seem to offer the diversity of views that some of the others did. However, I am still glad we came and can check that one off the bucket list.