Homeward Bound

 

We left Tuttle Creek Recreation Site on a sunny Sunday morning

and headed off for a long up and down drive along the very scenic Hwy 395 with impressive views of the Eastern Sierra Mountains. There are a number of small quaint towns along the way and we stopped in the largest, Bishop, for gas, a propane fill and a bit of grocery shopping. The road then passed the turnoff for Mammoth Lakes and several for Yosemite National Park that were still closed due to winter weather conditions. There were four high passes along the route, the highest about 8600ft (so not higher than the All American Road, but still taxing) and snow was still on the ground off the side of the road at many of these.

Once the last descent was done we were into ranching land and soon passed back into Nevada again and passed by another widening in the road named Holbrook.

At about 2:00pm we were getting close to our destination for the day at Washoe Lake State Park just north of Carson City when it seemed like a good time to stop for gas. So we drove into the Arco station in the community of Gardnerville and waited to pull up to the pumps but just then Pete watched the battery voltage gauge plummeted to zero volts and we weren't going anywhere. A call to AAA dispatched a tow truck in about half an hour and Dave towed our little caravan across the parking lot to a Tires Plus Total Car Service shop that was open on Sunday.

    

 

Unfortunately they would not have a mechanic on who could look at the problem for us until the morning but we were welcome to camp in their parking lot (they ensured us it was a safe neighbourhood) and there was a town park across the street they thought we might like to enjoy. Well it turns out there was some kind of Mexican festival (belated Cinco de Mayo?, Mexican Mothers' Day?) and there was a band that played Mexican oompah music (the same songs over and over until after 9pm) for the assembled crowd who seemed to favour cowboy attire. That's one Mothers' Day I won't forget!

But true to their word, the mechanic was there at 8am to confirm our suspicions that it was the alternator and they had the part ordered, delivered, and installed and we were on our way by 10am. We can look at it as our cheapest camping fee of the trip or the most expensive.

The 395 from Carson City to Reno was posted with lots of Wind Alerts for vehicles over 9ft and I guess we weren't surprised, it's Nevada after all. Once back in California, the wind was still an issue but it was a pleasant drive especially the portion through the Larssen National Forest and past Mt. Larssen.

We pulled into our reserved site at the Passport America rate Redding RV Park before 4pm so not bad for our late start. The sites were a bit close together but had all the conveniences and there was a communal fire pit/gas BBQ area that could have used (if the #%^^*wind hadn't kicked up again).

We allowed ourselves a slower start on the Tuesday as our drive would be shorter and we were working through issues with phone connectivity with our dear T-mobile. The weather in Northern Ca was sunny with clouds but quickly changed to showers and then heavy rain as Pete negotiated the I-5 through the Siskiyou Mountains weaving back and forth with the semis but by 2:30pm we pulled into the elegant Seven Feathers RV Park and were escorted to our pull-through patio site accented with rhoddos in full bloom.

I was disappointed that the cold that I had been suffering with since Death Valley meant I could not enjoy the indoor pool and spa and fitness centre but we did take a walk around their lovely grounds and then called for a free shuttle bus to take us across I-5 to the Seven Feathers Casino for the Tuesday night all -you-can-eat steak and crab leg buffet. What made this all the sweeter was that we secured our site for a half price Sunday - Thursday special of $19 after reading about it on one of the RV Park Review websites. Just too bad that the weather didn't cooperate so that we could sit outside on our patio or at one of the large communal firepits.

Under partly cloudy skies were took off on Tuesday morning to our last overnight stop of the trip. Even though this drive was along the I-5 it still offered the lovely views of the rolling green hillsides of southern Oregon through Roseburg and Sutherlin to a short stop in Eugene. I have always enjoyed Eugene when visiting the Black Sheep Festival, as a hip university town but my mission today took me to a more industrial side of town on the western outskirts that housed the Eugene Textile Center in an old house surrounded by charming gardens. I have made a number of purchases from this business at ANWG conferences but have not had the opportunity to visit their storefront before. It is both a retail outlet and a learning center offering classes, studio time and workshops and they were getting ready for their annual Fiber in the Forest retreat. It was one of those places that has stocked packed into every nook and cranny with lots of looms, wheels, and tools (some for sale, some in use) scattered throughout as well as in the studio. A little package of lunatic fringe cotton followed me out the door.

We arrived in the early afternoon at Silver Spur RV Resort, another Passport America park, in Silverton, Oregon. By this point my cold was in full attack so we spent a quiet last sunny afternoon reading under the awning (perhaps only the third time we had been able to put it down given all the wind on this trip) with only a short walk around the property to view the catch and release fish ponds which were located closed to the long term stay sites. An early start the next morning began with a drive through the countryside (lots of vineyards and Christmas tree farms) from the little heritage downtown of Silverton to Oregon City where we once again joined the I-5 for the 6hr straight slog to the border. My cold had taken such a hold I didn't even have the energy to have Pete detour to the Pendelton Mill Store which I had planned to visit. We arrived home under bright blue skies at 4pm on Thursday May 14, 37 days after leaving on the tour de rock and wind. Hey, only two months to the day until we hitch up trailer again and take off for Martha and Blanket Creek!

 

Death Valley Days

We never did get a data signal in Nevada, thanks for that T-Mobile. After an early morning stop at Costco in Henderson, Pete masterfully negotiated the freeways around Las Vegas that provided us with a brief view of the Las Vegas strip. Casinos were everywhere, even more predominate than in the reservation territory in New Mexico but this is Nevada so what else should we have expected.

We headed north on 95 into a desolate stretch of highway north of Vegas until it was time to turn off for Death Valley at the funky little town of Beatty. We started out at about 3000ft but descended quickly through some steep grades to sea level. Surprisingly the temperatures were in the low 60’s not what I had been led to expect for the lowest point in the US and the wind was still with us. So I decided we would be able to camp at Stovepipe Wells at sea level without perishing in the heat rather than proceeding to the Mesquite Springs campground which is at the north end of the park at 2000ft. However, one quick look at the desolate campground at Stovepipe Wells had us turning around and heading up the 33 miles to Mesquite Springs. Here we found a more inviting campground with views of the surrounding mountains, picnic tables (which had been absent at Stovepipe Wells except for the tenting only sites), a dump station, water and a solar powered campsite payment machine which processed our $12 credit card payment, however, the sites could have been a bit more level.

In the morning we had an early start and drove back the Scotty’s Castle Rd to Hwy 190 and started to descend to below sea level, and then climb to 5000ft, then descend to 2000ft, then climb once again through many switchbacks to the 4500ft level before exiting the park. It was easy to see why this area had earned the name Death Valley. Once out of the park the Eastern Sierra Mountains appeared ahead of us capped with snow. At about 11:00am we stopped at the Interagency Visitor Center at the intersection of Hwys 136 and 395 for directions to the BLM Tuttle Creek Campground then proceeded into the town of Lone Pine for coffee and wifi at McDonalds (the first time this trip we had to succumb to McDs for wifi, and then only to find there was wifi all along Main Street in town) and gas. It was early afternoon when we headed out the Whitney Portal Road pass the Movie Flats Rd (so named for the many western movies and TV shows as well as Star Trek Generations and Iron Man which had been filmed here) in the Alabama Hills. One of the earliest of these was Gunga Din. The 83 site BLM campground has water, a dump station (at an additional fee), spacious dirt campsites with tables, firepits, and lantern hangers for a fee of $5.00. The setting is gorgeous, right in the foothills of Mt. Whitney, the highest peak in the contiguous 48 states. It was relatively warm but the wind was still gusting mercilessly making sitting outside uncomfortable, especially once the sun was behind a cloud or started to set behind the beautiful snow capped mountains.

Nevada = Wind

We left Lake Powell and took a circuitous route that had us travel through Arizona, Utah, back to Arizona, back to Utah, back to Arizona and finally into Nevada, the last stretch through the dreaded interstate (15 this time) until it was time to head off down Hwy 169 past the town of Overton. Our drive had us descending over 3000 ft and it was significantly warmer at the lower elevation in Nevada, but the wind that has been a theme (along with rocks) for this trip was with us again (or still). We reached our destination for the day, Valley of Fire State Parks and picked a very large serviced (W & E) site with a picnic table ramada, fire pit and BBQ stand.

Our campground at Atlatl Rock also had showers and plentiful, clean restrooms and the sites are nestled in among the fire red rocks that give the park its name. In the afternoon we settled in to read under the shade of the ramada and were entertained by a trio of birds and a pair of squirrels who made numerous forays right up to our feet in search of any crumbs that might fall from our snacks.

At one point the wind blew Pete`s muffin wrapper onto the ground and before he could pick it up the squirrel had grabbed it and made a run for it. It was a pleasant warm afternoon but we had to be constantly watching for the wind to pick up anything that wasn`t firmly held down or secured (this included my nearly full wine glass at dinner!). In the morning we walked around the campground and discovered a ladder leading to a viewing platform for ancient petroglyths. 

On our drive out of the campground we stopped at the excellent visitor center and viewed the displays depicting the history and geology of the area as well as the flora and fauna (including a number of live lizards and a California King snake).

Pete appreciated our shortest driving day yet. We drove the Lake Mead Drive and by 11:30 we were settling into our $10 lake view campsite at the Boulder Campground, part of the Lake Mead National Recreational Area.

The winds, if anything, were gustier here and the sites surrounded by aspen trees so our afternoon was filled with the music of the rustling leaves. We did take a stroll across the rocky approaches to the lakefront where they appeared to be setting up for a triathalon. I cannot imagine what it will be like trying to swim against the current if the winds continue to blow.

Our only disappointment was that there is no data signal here which is surprising as we are less than 40 miles from the Las Vegas strip.

Antelope Canyon

We left Mather Campground on a cold Tuesday morning but with breaks to the blue as we headed east. As the weather continued to improve I decided that it was worth trying to get a tour of the Antelope Slot Canyon. The Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons are on Navajo land and you can only access them with a Navajo guide. Touring Lower Canyon involves climbing tall ladders and squeezing through tight openings so the Upper which only involves walking through the level Canyon sounded more suitable. Arriving in Page at about 11:30am we parked at the Safeway and walked over to one of the Navajo tour outfitters for the Antelope Slot Canyon. They were booked until their 3:00pm tour but suggested we could drive out Hwy 98 to the Canyon entrance and get on a 12:00 or 1:00 tour. It was only a ten or 15 minute drive but by the time we arrived, paid our $16 daypass for the Navajo territory, we were lucky to talk our way onto the list for the 1:00 tour.

 

 

When the time came we were divided into groups of 14 with a guide, ours was named Laurie, and we were loaded onto the back of a pickup truck with benches and a canvas roof for shade and driven 3 miles over the sand bumping and swaying along. The slot canyons are majestic and narrow passages carved through the Navajo sandstone by wind and water. Shafts of sunlight shine and bounce down from above the canyon walls casting shadows on the graceful curves and sharp edges in the rock. The Navajo have named some of the shapes for the images they conjure, the bear, the coyote, the wave, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, the heart and Laurie patiently pointed these out as well as advising which camera setting worked best for each type of camera for capturing the special colours of the canyon.

When we emerged at the end of the canyon Laurie pointed up to a young owl

that had been sitting vigil over the opening since the previous day. They feared that it had been in contact with some of the tourists and had now been abandoned by its mothers.

The tour lasted about an hour and a half and while the canyon was crowded (there must have been over 200 people on a 1:00 tour for the three different tour operators who had to wait patiently to file single file through the narrow canyon) and it was sometimes difficult to get a good picture without someone’s head getting in the way, it was still a magical place and I was very pleased that the timing (and the weather) had worked out so we could do this.

It was about 4:00pm when we arrived at our lovely large, lake view site at Wahweap Campground at Lake Powell Resorts.

This was probably the nicest private campground we have stayed at. The fee for the campground also includes access to the pool, spa, and business centre at the resort but our priority after shower and dinner was laundry.  Just as we drove down to the service area that held the laundry it started to rain, the wind (which had whipped up in the late afternoon) intensified and some the sky was filled with thunder and lightning. Pete rushed back to rescue the picnic shelter, chairs, and cushions while I waited for a turn at the machines and took advantage of the wifi to update the blog and check email. It was close to 9:30pm by the time the drying was done and we could settle in for the night.

Grand Canyon

Leaving Zion bound for the Grand Canyon meant another trip through the tunnel towing the trailer but somehow it didn’t seem so daunting this time having made the trek several times. In a couple of hours we were at Glen Canyon National Park and stopped to make reservations at Wahweap Campground on Lake Powell for the day we would be leaving the Grand Canyon. Although the most expensive campground yet at $44, after 9 days of camping in National Parks with few services a full hook up site with laundry facilities seemed like a worthwhile expenditure. After another stop in the town of Page for gas and groceries we continued on to the Grand Canyon, again passing through Navaho territory complete with innumerable stalls selling native crafts. We arrived at the East entrance to the park just as a few raindrops appeared but it was still relatively warm and they did not amount to much. We took the advice of the Park Ranger at the entrance and stopped at the Desert View Viewpoint and Service Centre for our first glimpse of the Canyon. Here we were able to see the Colorado River deep in the gorge and tour the Watchtower for a higher view.

 

We then continued on the 28 odd miles to our campsite at Mather Campground, a dry campground with flush toilets. Our site was a spacious pull-through with plenty of space for the van and the trailer despite the posted warnings of 30’ maximum vehicle lengths. The campground did appear to be showing its age; the asphalt was crumbing, the wooden picnic table was warped, and the toilet buildings were older but clean.  As we were setting up camp, a group of elk passed through the area behind out campsite.

 

After our Sunday breakfast we were off to find the Village shuttle (there are 4 different shuttle routes which intersect at various transfer points) which took us to the Visitors Center and from there it was a short walk to Mather Point.  It was a bright, sunny morning but cool so Pete had a fleece and I had my sweatshirt and our packs held water, lunch, cameras, and shorts (in case it got hot). We hopped another shuttle to the Village and disembarked at the Train Depot and then walked up to the historic El Tovar lodge and Hopi House.  The Hopi House, in addition to a gift shop housed a gallery of native art, again displaying some Navaho rugs similar to the ones we had seen at the Hubbell Trading Post.

 
We walked the rim area here and toured the Kolb Studio before hiking the upper portion of the Bright Angel Trail down past the first tunnel and back up again.  It was warming and we had removed our jackets by this point.

By about 10:30 we lined up with the growing Sunday crowds for the Red Route Shuttle that takes Park visitors to nine stops along the way to Hermit’s Rest. This route from Bright Angel Trailhead to Hermit’s Rest is only accessible by shuttle and the buses were crowded. From the first few of these viewpoints, while the views of the canyon are impressive, you do not get a view of the Colorado River. However, what we did get was a view of the ever darkening sky.

We decided to hike the rim trail between Powell Point and Hopi Point and it was while we were enjoying the view

that we felt the first fat raindrops. The wind was increasing and thunder started to roll and so we joined the crowds lining up the shuttle. The rain started to pound and we put on our jackets, wishing we had stowed our gortex in our backpacks. When the shuttle arrived the driver allowed everyone in the line to squeeze on board to take shelter during the downpour but we had to get off and wait for another bus when she determined that the worst was over and it was time for her to resume her route. Turns out the worst wasn’t over and the rain turned to hail as we shivered waiting for a shuttle with enough room to take us to the next stop where we had to get off and wait again for a shuttle travelling the return route. We decided to return to camp and have lunch and warm up (it was now about 12:30pm) and were surprised to find that it was much drier at the campground and the sun was starting to come out. After our break and putting our gortex jackets in the van and garbage bags fashioned into emergency rain ponchos into our backpacks we set off again hoping to catch a performance of Hope Dancers back at the Village.

Parking was an issue on the still busy Sunday afternoon and by the time we arrived back at the rim the rain had started to fall again. On went the emergency ponchos and we arrived just the dancers decided to cut their performance short due to the rain.

We could see that the sky wasn’t as dark to the east so once back at the van we took off to the Desert View Drive. The rain first became intermittent showers and had dissipated by the time we stopped and visited the Tusayan Museum and ruins.

After gassing up at Desert View we did the return leg along the drive stopping at each of the viewpoints.

Dinner, an amalgam of various leftovers from previous meals was cooked inside the trailer and after consuming our main course at the picnic table wearing coats and toques we retreated back inside for dessert.

The morning arrived cold but with a promise of some sun so we decided to resume where we had left off when the rain started the day before on the western rim at Mohave Point. I was so much easier to get parking in a prime location and not have to battle the weekend crowds for space on the shuttle at 8:30 on Monday morning. It also seemed like a good time for a bit of a walk and a chance to appreciate more of the view close up so we chose to hike the rim for the 1.2 miles between Mohave Point and The Abyss.

It was nice to be able to enjoy the grandeur of the canyon in quiet solitude and have the chance to see the high desert wildflowers blooming along the trail.

We hopped on and off the shuttle at the remaining view points and were fortunate to time our visit to Pima Point when a tour bus with a guide was there pointing out the location of the ruins of the original Hermit Cabin and giving some of the history of the area

When we reached the final stop on the Red Route at Hermit’s Rest the skies were darkening again as the clouds rolled in and our return shuttle got us back to the village just before the rain started to fall again. After a bit of shopping we hustled back to the campsite and took down the picnic shelter quickly so we would not have to pack it up soaking wet. After lunch we went in search of wifi at the Park Headquarters and were ushered into a private office in the Research Library with access to power and a half way reasonable signal while listening to the librarian chattering non-stop to other visitors who arrived.

Of the four “biggie” National Parks that we visited: Arches, Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon, I probably enjoyed the Grand Canyon the least due to its commercialism and size (and perhaps the weather, too!). It also did not seem to offer the diversity of views that some of the others did. However, I am still glad we came and can check that one off the bucket list.

Zion-Bryce Canyon National Parks

After orienting ourselves at the Visitor Center we loaded our backpacks, put on our hiking boots and set off for our first shuttle bus ride along the Zion Canyon. In order to reduce the environmental impact of the cars and rvs that clogged the canyon road in the 1990’s the park instituted a free shuttle bus system and banned private vehicles (with a few exemptions) from the canyon road. The shuttles are a tandem system where one bus with driver pulls a second and passengers can get on and off at any of the 7 stops along the canyon.

They also have a single shuttle that picks up and drops off passengers in the adjacent town of Springdale to encourage park visitors to leave their vehicles in town as parking is limited at Zion (hence the new lot being developed).

We took the shuttle to the furthest point and worked our way backwards. We had dressed in layers as the day started cool and windy, especially at our first hike from the Temple of Sinawava along the Riverside Walk. The walk allowed us to view some of the hanging gardens, get up close with some of the wildlife, and watch the hardy souls begin the Narrows, a hike which continues up the canyon in the Virgin River. Most of those attempting this strenuous venture did so in rented waterproof boots, socks and hip waders rented from outfitters in town.

Our next hike was short but steep up to the Weeping Rock where we passed under on overhead shower and sought refuge under an overhang to take our pictures.

Rather than take the shuttle we walked between The Grotto and the Zion Lodge, a heritage hotel with a large, grassy lawn with a massive old tree. Although it was warming, the wind was still blowing the cottonwood such that it almost appeared to be snowing as we sat in rocking chairs on the lodge veranda and ate our lunch. We hiked up to the Lower Emerald Pool but were disappointed that it appeared more muddy than emerald at this point. However our short steep walk up to the Court of the Patriarchs was well worth it for the view of the three majestic peaks to the west: Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.

Our final stop was at the Zion Human History Museum which had some interesting exhibits and reinforced how much the development of the areas which are now the Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks owe to the Mormons’ push to settle areas where they could practice their religion freely.

Back at the campsite with the construction site still in full swing we decided to make a trip into Springdale for overpriced firewood and groceries and wifi at the Library which while free was insufficient to allow for much more than downloading some of our emails.

The next morning we were up early and took off retracing our route to Bryce Canyon National Park. We were able to stop at some of the viewpoints before the tunnel which we had not been able to do when we arrived towing the trailer. At Bryce, we found that the shuttles are optional so we decided to explore the park in the van. Our first stop after the Visitor Center was Sunrise Point. The rocks here have a much pinker, more delicate hue and more fragile look, almost like stalactites.

We hiked the rim trail over to Sunset Point, all the while marvelling at the hardy, fit souls who choose to hike the trails down in the canyon and back up. We also crossed over the horse trails as a couple of riders went by on what would definitely be an easier way to explore the floor of the canyon. After a break for lunch and the hike back to Sunrise Point, just as one of the shuttles decided to blow its engine blocking our exit route, requiring us to go up the downstairs, we continued on to Inspiration Point and Bryce Point. Inspiration Point was definitely my favourite view of the park, truly spectacular and well worth the sharp hike up to the point.

We drove on as far as the Natural Arch (which seemed to pale in comparison after Arches National Park) and by then it was time to head back to Zion. We did make a stop to pick up firewood at a house in Glendale with an honour system $5.00 in the pot and take two bundles, such a deal after paying $5.99 for a tiny bundle in Springdale the day before.  

Of the two parks, I think I preferred Bryce, the scenery was just so much more dramatic and different than anything I had seen before.

The All American Road

Again waiting for better signal to post pictures

On Wednesday morning, April 29, we departed Arches on a warm, sunny, cloudless day. I made Pete stop on our way out at the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint so I could get a photo of the mountains without clouds hovering over top.

A short leg on interstate 70 (which we last travelled in Kansas almost three years ago) and then we were off to quieter but lumpier roads. First Hwy 24 took us to Hanksville, and then a quick stop at Capitol Reef National Park.

Massive cliffs of red rocks towered over the visitor center and windy road making us sorry that time didn’t allow more than a lunch stop here as we had many more miles to go today. We did have to slow at one point to let a family of deer cross the road and later Pete had to react quickly as a Pronghorn appeared at the side of the road.

Soon we turned onto Hwy 12, which is identified as a Scenic Byway and known as the All American Road. Here we started to climb until we reached the summit at 9600 ft. (our highest point yet of the trip.) While the road was clear, snow fields still hung right down to the road edge in several places

and we were above the tree line in others. However, the compensation was provided at several scenic viewpoints looked out on miles of surrounding mountains and valleys as far as the eye could see. After the small Utah towns of Boulder and Escalante we reached the area known as the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and we drove along the ridge with great white rock outcroppings on either side. As the road continued we passed the turnoff to Bryce Canyon National Park but we did not stop as that was on the agenda in a couple of days. Just before Hwy 12 reached its intersection with Hwy 89 we came to the beautiful National Forest area of Red Canyon. The forestry campsite here looked inviting and again we regretted not having more time to spend in the area but our reserved campsite at Zion National Park awaited our arrival.

In order to get there, though, we first had to negotiate the Mt. Carmel tunnel. In addition to the park entrance fee of $25 (which we did not have to pay as we had purchased our America the Beautiful Pass which allows entry to all national parks, forests and monuments for a year) we were assessed a $15 fee as a large vehicle (over 7’ 10” wide or 11’ 4” tall) for traffic control in the tunnel. This very long, dark tunnel was constructed in the 1920’s before the advent of recreational vehicles so we had to wait to travel single file through the centre of the tunnel. Once through the tunnel the road descends through a series of narrow switchbacks surrounded by the awesome views of the approaching Zion Canyon sentinels.

We finally arrived at the Watchman campground and while we were pleased to have a relatively spacious, level site with electricity we were disappointed to find that while I had paid a premium for a supposed “riverfront” site, we could not see the Virgin River from our site but we did have a front row seat for a noisy dusty construction site was they developed a new parking lot between our site and the Visitor Center.  They started work before 6:30 in the morning and continued until close to 7:00pm. Oh well, so much for the natural environment of a national park.